This survey of women-led fashion design centered around the twentieth and twenty-first centuries emphasizes the creative agency and artistic legacy of female creators.

Delve into the timeless influence of fashion crafted by and for women with this insightful book. Spanning more than 70 female designers, from anonymous dressmakers in 18th-century France to modern-day fashion leaders, the collection draws from the esteemed permanent archives of The Costume Institute. Through thoughtful essays, the book explores the concepts of anonymity, visibility, agency, and absence/omission, showcasing the significant impact of women in the fashion industry. From legendary names like Mad Carpentier, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Madeleine Vionnet to American designers Ann Lowe, Claire McCardell, and Isabel Toledo, to contemporary artists Rei Kawakubo, Anifa Mvuemba, Simone Rocha, and Iris van Herpen, this volume celebrates both renowned fashion houses and lesser-known histories. Featuring stunning new photography that captures the essence of each garment, this book also includes a fold-out genealogical chart that maps the connections between featured designers. Discover the rich and often overlooked legacy of women-led history of fashion.